Intro
Located in the center of Bulgaria, Veliko Tarnovo is one of the country’s finest tourist destinations. As the capital of the medieval Second Bulgarian Empire, there is a remarkable array of history on display. This is paired with dramatic mountain scenery; the old quarter tumbles down the steep slopes of hills above the Yantra River. This town has a real sense of verticality.
Veliko Tarnovo is also home to a beautiful assortment of National Revival architecture from the 18th – 19th centuries. Despite all this history, the city is still surprisingly comfortable, with a well-developed tourist infrastructure. You’ll wonder why it hasn’t been discovered yet.
Getting In
Veliko Tarnovo is in the north-center of the country, so it is reasonably easy to get to the other main Bulgarian tourist destinations.
There are two main bus stations in the city: Zapad (West), and Yug (south). Of the two, Yug is walkable from old town at about 0.7km away. Zapad is further, but has more departures. Local buses 10, 12, 14, 70, or 110 go to Zapad, and taxis are widely available as an alternative.
Destinations from Zapad bus station include Burgas (4 hours, several daily), Kazanluk (2-3hrs, several daily), and Plovdiv (4hrs, several daily). Services from Yug bus station include Sofia (3 hours, hourly departures) and Varna (4 hours, several daily). Both stations are relatively small, but feature ticket windows and shops. Zapad offers left-luggage services.
Expect delays; buses are quite likely to arrive late and traffic often takes longer than anticipated. There are multiple bus companies serving the different routes. Buses, at least on major routes like to Plovdiv or Sofia, are usually comfortable, with first class seats, table, wi-fi, and air con. Public transportation in Bulgaria can sometimes be tricky, but is by no means impossible. Try to book online if you know which companies are available.
Trains arrive in Veliko Tarnovo primarily at the Gorna Oryakhovitsa Station some 8.5km from town; Veliko Tarnovo Train Station is 1.5km from old town but receives few trains. From Gorna Oryakhovitsa, Sofia is 4-5 hours away and Varna 3-4 hours. Take a minibus or taxi from central Veliko Tarnovo.
If coming from Ruse and the Romanian border, buses depart at 9:30am and 12pm or 1pm, depending on day/season. There are also 2-3 daily slow trains. Things run slower in Ruse, so expect everything to be a bit late and unorganized.
Getting Around
The easiest way to navigate Veliko Tarnovo is on foot. This is especially true for the Old Town, which is full of narrow streets sloping down towards the river. In fact, a car is a liability in the Old Town due to lack of parking. You can walk from one end of the historic quarter to the other end in about 20 minutes. The main road that passes through goes straight to Tsarevets Fortress.
Public transportation is not really needed, unless you’re heading to or from Zapad Bus Station or somewhere else in the New Town to the west of the city. You’ll pay the driver onboard. There are numerous routes, but little information online besides the above routes that go to Zapad.
Finally, taxis are a viable option to get around. A ride should be fairly cheap, no more than a few leva to go across town. Ask the rate before entering and always watch the meter. Taxi drivers are known to be dishonest so call ahead from your hotel or restaurant to mitigate the risk. Uber does not operate in Bulgaria.
Layout
Veliko Tarnovo is split into two main sections: the Old Town wrapped around a river bend and down its steep slopes, and the flat, modern New Town to the west. The famous fortresses of Tsarevets and Trapezitsa are found just to the east of the New Town along the main road.
Most tourist attractions and other points of interest are located in the hilly Old Town. Major roadways and rail lines go through tunnels underneath the hills and circumvent the historic area to the south. The one main road through the Old Town is connected to the New Town from the West; stay on this and you won’t possibly get lost.
There’s a tourist information office near the Tsarevets Fortress. It is open from 9 to 6 Monday-Fri, shorter on weekends. The office closes during winter.
Tsarevets Fortress
Capital and seat of power for the Second Bulgarian Empire, Tsarevets Fortress is Veliko Tarnovo’s greatest attraction. The imposing fortress was settled at least 2,000 years ago. It has kilometers of walls, fortifications, and the remnants of some 400 houses and 20 churches built on atop the prominent Tsarevets Fortress.
Tsarevets had its heyday in the 13th century, and was ultimately destroyed by the Turks in the 1390s. The complex was excavated and restored (somewhat controversially) by the Communist regime, completed in the 1980s. The complex is huge, with tons to explore. You can go up into watchtowers, through ruined structures, and along the cliffsides. Views of the surrounding mountains are spectacular from almost any point within the complex.
One of the most interesting parts of the fortress is Baldwin’s Tower, a reconstructed medieval tower at the end of the southern wall. Named for Crusader Baldwin I of Flanders, who was held and later executed here, it today offers commanding views of the area.
Another interesting feature is the Ascension Cathedral, a modern structure on the site of previous churches in the past. The inside features beautiful mosaics, though the main attraction is the tower, which offers even better views of the fortress and surrounding scenery.
Tsarevets Fortress is a sprawling, hilltop complex with lots to see. Watch your step when walking around the edge since some sections lack guardrails. Remember: you’re on a clifftop fortress.
Entry is 6 leva, with an additional 2 leva fee for the elevators up the church tower. Opening hours are 8am to 7pm from April to October, and 9 to 5 November to March. Walk down the main street through the Old Town to the east and you’ll be right at the entrance. Plan to spend 2-3 hours at the site.
Sound and Light Show
One of Veliko Tarnovo’s most dramatic attractions is this laser light show projected onto Tsarevets Fortress. It operates year-round, and offers free shows on public holidays. You can book private shows on request for a fee.
Shows are 20 minutes in duration. If you’re in town for one of the free shows, you can watch from Tsar Asen I Square in front of the causeway entrance to the fortress. For paid performances, you’ll go to the panoramic viewing platform located behind the Virgin Mary Cathedral. This terrace is quite comfortable in all seasons, as there is an indoor section with AC or heat in addition to the outside terrace.
Check the website here for more information on tickets and showtimes.
Asen’s Monument
This monument, which stands on a peninsula across the Yantra River from the Old Town, was built to celebrate the 800th anniversary of the founding of the Asen Dynasty. The Asens rebelled against the Byzantine Empire in 1186, and succeeded in creating their own empire in Bulgaria. They set up their capital at Tsarevets Fortress.
The monument is made up of four horsemen, depicting the first four Asen rulers with a sword rising to the sky in the middle. You can see the monument from any of the beautiful viewing terraces located along the main road through the Old Town. Alternatively, you can cross the river to get an up-close look. It backs up to an expansive park, Sveta Gora, which is great for a stroll. There is also an art museum on site.
Ulitsa General Gurko
General Gurko Street is the oldest in Veliko Tarnovo. Lined with charming National Revival style houses from the 19th century, it is the best place in the city for a peaceful stroll. While ambling about the cobbled streets, you can take in views of the river and the Asen Monument.
Veliko Tarnovo doesn’t lack photogenic spots, but General Gurko Street is one of the best. The entire area just exudes charm. It is touristy, but not tourist-trappy. This is especially true in comparison to the nearby Samovodska Charshia, or ‘Old Bazaar Street’, which has a similar atmosphere but with many more tourist shops. General Gurko has a ton of museums to visit instead of touristy craft shops.
General Gurko has a real worn-down ambience. Don’t expect a sanitized Old Town experience like in some parts of Western Europe. The street feels lived in.
Holy Forty Martyrs Church
The Holy Forty Martyrs Church is one of Veliko Tarnovo’s (and all of Bulgaria’s) finest monasteries. It is located within a valley at the foot of Tsarevets Hill. You’ll enter through a beautiful riverside garden.
Holy Forty Martyrs Church was built around 1230, and unlike other nearby churches, was not destroyed by the Ottomans in the 14th century; it was instead converted into a mosque. It was converted back to a church after the 1878 liberation of Bulgaria.
Inside, the church is arranged into a basilica (complete with six medieval columns) and a section added later on the Western side. While fairly plain for an Orthodox church, it is still worth a visit. Entrance is 6 leva. Openign hours are 9 to 6 from April to October, to 5pm rest of the year.
Sarafkina House
Sarafkina House is one of Veliko Tarnovo’s finest examples of National Revival architecture. It was built for a wealthy banker in the 1860s. The wooden exterior and interior both exude charm.
The main entrance opens into a large, open hall with rooms leading off. Each room contains traditional and crafts arranged around a different theme. For example, one room showcases Bulgarian folk clothes, while another has a collection of breadmaking stamps and painted easter eggs. Yet another room features intricated woodcarvings. Upstairs, there is a great photo exhibition with tons of pictures from early Veliko Tarnovo.
Sarafkina House is accessible from General Gurko Street. Entry is 6 leva. Opening hours are 9-6 April through October, to 5:30 Nov-Mar. Last entry is 30 minutes before close. In addition, the museum is closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Prison Museum
Another interesting museum in the Old Town is Veliko Tarnovo’s Prison Museum. This is right next to the Museum of the Bulgarian Reivival. It operated from the mid 19th century to the 1950s.
While visiting, you’ll tour the cells, yards, and corridors that once held prisoners, including revolutionary leaders from the late 19th century. There are three floors to explore full of period mock-ups of cells complete with wax figures.
Entry is 6 leva. The museum is open from 9am to 5:30am, and last entry is 30 minutes before close. There isn’t a ton of English signage, but it is still worth popping in.
Museum of the Bulgarian Revival
This museum, also within the Old Town, was built in the 19th century as a police station by the Ottoman Turks. It has a stunning exterior built in the National Revival style, like so much of the rest of the historic district. Most importantly, it was the site of the 1879 Constituent Assembly.
Inside, there are numerous exhibitions on various topics. One exhibition showcases Christian art from the 16th century to the end of the 19th century. Wood carvings and icons are the big focus in this exhibition. Another exhibition covers the Bulgarian Revival period from the 18th to the 19th century. Finally, an upstairs exhibition covers the history of the National Liberation against the Turks.
The Museum of the Bulgarian Revival costs 6 leva to visit. Opening hours are 9 to 6 (to 5:30 in winter). Last entry is half an hour before closing.
Mini Bulgaria
If you’re looking for something to do that isn’t a museum or fortress, this is it! This classic style tourist attraction features miniature landmarks from all around Bulgaria. All of the landmarks are built to 1:25 scale, so you can get a good grasp of Bulgaria’s most important cultural monuments in an accessible way.
In addition to the attraction itself, Mini Bulgaria is very popular with domestic tourists, so you can experience a bit of tourism designed for locals. As an added bonus, if you don’t have time to see all of Bulgaria’s greatest hits, you can at least see a scale replica here.
Mini Bulgaria is located below Tsarevets Hill. In fact, you can get a good look at the park from the top of Baldwin’s Tower within the Tsarevets Fortress complex. If you decide to get a closer look, entry is 15 leva. The park is open from 9am to 7:30am April to September and 9 to 6 from October to March.
Trapezitsa Fortress
Veliko Tarnovo has another medieval hilltop fortress: Trapezitsa. This complex stands across the Yantra River valley from Tsarevets. While this fortress is less reconstructed than Tsarevets, it still has tons of ruined buildings and walls to explore.
Trapezitsa is a longer walk from the Old Town than is Tsarevets. you’ll have to go through the valley and loop around to the entrance across the river. Because of this, it feels more out of the way and thus gets fewer visitors.
If you do decide to visit, there is a funicular that goes up the hill to the fortress, saving a long and tiring walk. However, it is closed on Mondays. Trapezitsa is open from 8:30am to 7pm, but is closed to the public November-March. Even if you can’t visit, there are great views from Tsarevets Fortress across the valley.
Other Churches
The valley between Tsarevets and Trapezitsa Hills is home to numerous historic churches, including the Holy Forty Martyrs Church. Many of these were reconstructed in the 1930s after centuries of ruin by the Turks. The area is still very scenic, so take some time to see a couple of the other churches; even if they aren’t all that old, many of them still have beautiful mosaics.
Arbanasi Village
Arbanasi village is located between Veliko Tarnovo and Gorna Oryahovitsa, which has the bigger train station. The village has a ton of medieval churches to visit. Some of these churches feature beautiful 16th-18th century mosaics. There is also a ton of National Revival architecture.
The village is 3km from Veliko Tarnovo. While it is possible to hike from the city to Arbanasi, the easiest way to get in is to hire a taxi. If neither of these are appealing, you can book a day tour to visit the village. Ask your accommodation for more information on either option.
Food
Bulgarian food is some of the best in Europe. It has a lot of Turkish influence, but with a unique flair. Be sure to try ayran, a salty yogurt drink that is an acquired taste. In addition, try shopska salad, similar to Greek salad but covered in a mound of cheese. Everything tastes so fresh and delicious. Bulgaria is famous for tomatoes, yogurt, and cheese. Don’t miss out these specialties during your visit.
I recommend two restaurants in Veliko Tarnovo: Ego and Shtastliveca. Not only do they both serve excellent Bulgarian cuisine, but they also feature incredible view of the Yantra river valley. Both are favorites of locals and tourists alike. Furthermore, both provide remarkable value compared to Western Europe. Keep in mind that both have multiple locations across the city.
Finally, don’t miss out on trying rakia. This is Bulgaria’s national firewater, and it plays a very important role in their culture. You can try it at either of the above restaurants, or buy it from a shop. Many Bulgarians swear by its medicinal properties.
Final Thoughts
Veliko Tarnovo, like the rest of Bulgaria, is a seriously underrated tourist destination. The secret will eventually get out, however, so don’t hold off a visit for too long. Bulgaria is showing up on more and more tourist radars and is slowly getting the attention it deserves. Veliko Tarnovo is a remarkably scenic and tourist-friendly location and will almost certainly be one of the main pillars of tourism in Bulgaria. Come see for yourself!