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Sofia is the vibrant, cool capital of Bulgaria. It feels surprisingly comfortable, and much easier to travel in than the rest of the country. Centuries clash as an eclectic mix of architecture, ranging from Roman, medieval, Ottoman, and communist eras stand side by side. As mosques stand next to Orthodox churches, you’ll be quickly reminded that this is the East: Turkey is just a border away. And always remember that cash is king. While things are changing, cards aren’t accepted everywhere.
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Sofia is a flat city at the foot of a tall mountain, Vitosha. Mt Vitosha is one of the tallest mountains next to a capital city in Europe. Facing south, you can see the peak from almost anywhere in Sofia-if it isn’t shrouded in fog, that is.
Back in town, Sofia’s wide boulevards give it an air of elegance that shines through its grimy post-communist veneer. The city center has an astounding array of things to see and do, from free Roman ruins to some of Europe’s best museum collections. If you haven’t heard of Sofia, now is the time to put it firmly on the map. I hope this guide inspires you to plan your own visit!
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Getting In
Sofia is the largest city in Bulgaria, its main entry point by air, train, and bus. Sofia Airport has good connections across Europe. It has two terminals, T1 mostly for budget flights. Both feature basic services like ATMs, shops, and cafes. Sofia Airport is 10km from the city center, but there is a very handy direct metro connection to Serdica in the city center.
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One note for certain travelers: there are no cheap flights to Istanbul, even though it is just across the border in Turkey. One way flights start at around €100.
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Sofia Central Train Station is the main rail gateway for city and country. Inside is massive but sparse, with little inside in the way of information desks, shops, restaurants, or other services. It felt dingy despite being rather new. Ticket windows are hard to find. Worst of all, staff is quite dishonest: I had to bribe an employee to show me what platform I needed. Also, platforms are near impossible to discern. Allow extra time to arrive before your train leaves. Book your ticket online as well; you can show the conductor your ticket on your phone.
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The central bus station is right next door to the train station. It serves routes to most big cities and towns in Bulgaria, as well as some international destinations. Dozens of private companies operate out of this station, so give yourself some extra time to find your way, especially if you haven’t booked tickets online.
Both stations share a metro stop; they are located 1km north of the town center. It isn’t a good neighborhood, so take the metro or walk quickly and with purpose. You won’t be in any danger during the day.
Getting Around
Downtown Sofia is easily walkable. Sidewalks are wide, and there are plenty of pedestrian areas and underpasses around the main tourist areas. Unfortunately, when you do have to cross the street, you’ll really need to pay attention, as drivers can be wild.
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As previously mentioned, Sofia has a metro system with connections to the airport and train/bus stations. It is pretty useful to get around the city, though the network is smaller than cities like Budapest or Prague. The journey from the airport takes around 30 minutes. Google Maps can plan out public transport routes.
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Sofia’s public transport network also features buses, trolleybuses, and trams. All methods run from around 5:30am to 11pm. Buy tickets from machines found in metro stations. You can pay with card or cash. I was able to pay with my bank card at the turnstiles sometimes, but not every time, so it may not be totally reliable. A single journey is 2 leva, but a full day is capped at 4lv.
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Always validate your ticket immediately upon boarding the metro/tram/bus. Look for the yellow machine and put the ticket in, or keep the bank card you used handy. Fees are steep and inspectors are not sympathetic.
There are also plenty of taxis around Sofia. Be careful here, as unlicensed taxis can be scams at best and dangerous at worst. Only used licensed taxis with fares listed on windows and a ‘taxi’ sign on top. The best option is to call and order one. Coming from the airport, you can prebook OK-Supertrans taxis inside at the counter. After paying, take the slip of paper and head outside to find your assigned driver. Uber does not operate in Bulgaria.
Nevsky Cathedral
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This massive church is one of Sofia’s main symbols. It stands in the middle of a large plaza so you can see the wedding cake-shape and green or gold domes from all angles. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral was built from 1882-1912 and named for a 13th century Russian warrior-prince in honor of the Russian war dead who fought to liberate Bulgaria from the Ottomans.
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The interior feels even more massive than the exterior. High ceilings decorated with gold frescoes and icons give the space an ethereal, exotic feel. This is a great first Orthodox church if you’ve never visited one before. It is one of the biggest churches in the Balkans, and one of the largest Orthodox churches anywhere.
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Nevsky Cathedral is free to enter. The crypt (enter on the left side of the main entrance) costs an additional few lev to visit. It is open from 10am to 3:30, but closed Mondays. It contains a huge collection of icons dating back to the earliest days of Christianity in Bulgaria.
Sveta Sofia Church
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Situated in a lovely park adjacent to Nevsky Cathedral, Sveta Sofia Church is one of Sofia’s oldest. In fact, it gave the city of Sofia its name. Sveta Sofia was constructed in the 6th Century during the reign of Emperor Justinian, who built the more famous Hagia Sophia in Constantinople. What’s more, Sveta Sofia was built atop the ruins of several older churches.
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This remarkable piece of early Christian architecture would be the centerpiece of any comparably sized city in the rest of Europe. Built in the shape of a cross, it features an open floorplan with three altars. The floor is covered with early Christian mosaics.
Sveta Sofia has an underground necropolis with dozens of Roman tombs. This is one of the finest examples of 4th century Christianity in Europe, so you shouldn’t miss it. The church is open every day, and open to tourists outside of services. Its necropolis is 6lv, and closed on Mondays.
Sveti George Rotunda
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The oldest building in Sofia is this small 4th century rotunda built by the Romans. While small, it is quite attractive with its red brick and original cylindrical dome. Sveti George is surrounded by a communist-era neoclassical building, saved from destruction by a sympathetic party member.
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It is a popular, working church with many worshippers, but visitors are welcome inside. The interior has a beautiful array of frescoes from the 12th to the 14th centuries, but photos aren’t allowed, so you’ll have to see them for yourself. Entry is free.
There are more Roman remains adjacent to the church still within the courtyard. They aren’t anything spectacular, but you get a really good view of the hypocaust, or the ancient Roman heating system. Yes, the Romans had floor heating; they channeled hot air or water through pipes beneath the floor to heat up the stone.
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Sveti Petka Samardzhiiska
You can find another tiny church, this one from the 14th century, in the middle of the Serdica metro complex. Descend the steps into the lower level into Serdica and you’ll see it quite easily. It is right next to the steps up towards Vitosha Boulevard.
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Sveti Petka Samardzhiiska was built during the Ottoman era, and was consequently made up of lesser quality materials, and features a low-key exterior. It may have been built by amateurs, as the Ottomans discouraged church building. Hours are a bit sporadic, but since the church is so central, you’ll probably pass by it a few times during your stay.
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Free Sofia Tour
One of the best things to do in Sofia is to take a free walking tour. For those who haven’t done one before, these tours are tip-based, so you’ll pay the guide what you wish at the end. Be sure to tip well if they did a good job, since this is their income.
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Free Sofia Tour puts on excellent tours hosted by friendly, informative, and verified local tour guides. Sofia can be a difficult city to unpack by yourself, so taking a tour can unlock the city and explain it in a sensible way. In addition to providing context to what you’re seeing, guides tell some great stories about the city too.
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Tours last two hours. Show up at the Palace of Justice (adjacent to Vitosha Blvd) a few minutes before start time and look for the guides-they won’t be hard to miss. Tour times are 10am, 11am, and 6pm April to October and 11am, 2pm, and 6pm from November to March. Unlike some free tour companies in other cities, Free Sofia Tour also has an excellent website that you can use as a resource for your time in Sofia. Click the link here to check it out.
Archaeological Museum
Sofia’s superb Archaeological Museum is a historical landmark in its own right. It occupies a former mosque, built in 1496, which provides an incredible atmosphere while browsing the superb collection of Thracian, Greek, and medieval artifacts.
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The museum’s halls, divided by era, contain statues, stelae, tombs, coins, and a wide array of other artifacts spread across two floors. Unlike many museums in Bulgaria, Sofia’s Archaeological Museum has plenty of English descriptions for the artifacts.
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The Archaeological Museum is right in the center of town, across from the Presidential offices. Entry is 10lv. Opening hours are 10 to 6 May through October, to 5pm the rest of the year. Last entry is 30 minutes before closing.
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Ancient Serdica
Sofia has a history dating back to Roman times. The best place to experience the city’s Roman heritage is Serdica, an impressive excavation of buildings, walls, and churches in the heart of the city. Serdica was an important settlement along a couple of major trade routes, and was so important that Emperor Constantine considered making it the capital of the empire. He ultimately decided on the humbly named Constantinople instead.
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Serdica ruins were discovered when the city was expanding the Serdica metro interchange in the 2010s. The expansive complex stretches from the open-air pedestrian interchange through the covered space under the National Assembly, complete with a glass bubble on the surface. There is also an indoor exhibition operated by the Sofia History Museum.
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Serdica consists of about 8 streets, with the ruined foundations of houses, 4th century churches, and bath houses. Many of the ruins were controversially “cleaned up” when they were excavated, and you can see a pretty obvious difference between what’s original and what was added. Still, there are very few places in Europe where you can see so much Roman heritage in the dead center of the city. And these ruins are free to boot. You’ll walk right past them a half a dozen times if you’re sightseeing.
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There is a paid indoor section, but it isn’t really necessary to visit because most of the Serdica complex is totally free and open. If you decide to visit the paid exhibition, it costs 6lv. The site good English signage scattered about the open-air metro interchange.
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Mt Vitosha
Vitosha is a large massif on Sofia’s southern outskirts, and the original Bulgarian tourist spot. Since 1895, when a local writer convinced members of the Sofia well-to-do to take a hike to the summit for the weekend, locals and tourists alike flock to the mountain’s forested slopes. In summer, the trails are perfect for hiking. In winter, skiing is the big draw.
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You can get to the mountain and its trails by a combination of bus and ski lift, which double as transport to hiking trails in summer. Take buses 123 and 93 to the most popular lifts. Most of these bus routes and lifts only operate on weekends and holidays in summer, so plan your trip for then or take a taxi. Alternatively, Sofia Green Tour Hiking is a well-rated company that brings tourists up to the mountain for guided hikes.
Boyana Church
The tiny Boyana Church stands in the center of a small, forested garden on the slopes of Mt Vitosha. It was built in different stages; the tiny original 11th century chapel, a 13th century addition, and a 19th century section that redoubles its size.
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Boyana Church has a humble exterior but contains Bulgaria’s finest medieval frescoes inside. This is the most important medieval art anywhere in Bulgaria, and it is impressive. Expect to see saints and biblical stories depicted with a style approaching (or even equal too) the Italian Renaissance.
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You’ll only be allowed into the church for 10 minutes at a time, so go first thing in the morning or expect to wait a long time. If you do have to wait (and even if you don’t), take the time to breathe in the fresh mountain air while wandering around the peaceful, forested oasis around the church.
Day trips to Rila Monastery usually stop here first, which saves you a separate taxi/bus journey. If you do take the bus, routes 64 and 107 go to the church. Entry to the church is 10lv. The office at the front of the gated park takes card and leva, but carrying leva is always a good idea in Bulgaria. Opening hours are 9:30am to 6pm April-October, to 5:30pm in winter.
Vitosha Boulevard
Sofia’s coolest street is this pedestrian strip that heads south from the Palace of Justice towards Mt Vitosha and the NDK. Vitosha is vibrant, full of locals and tourists who amble up and down the boulevard enjoying life. There are plenty of planters with benches for those who just want to sit back and take in the scene.
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Vitosha Boulevard has dozens of cool restaurants, shops, and enclosed terrace bars. Because Bulgaria is a remarkable value for travelers, you can have the experience of eating at a nice high street restaurant without spending a fortune. Vitosha is the best place in Sofia to spend an afternoon or evening after a long day of sightseeing.
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Sofia History Museum
Sofia’s city history museum is a piece of art in itself: housed in a beloved former mineral baths building opened in 1908. Its secessionist style features unique Bulgarian elements and a vibrant color scheme that pairs excellently with the well-curated collection inside.
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The museum’s permanent exhibition is arranged across 8 halls on two floors, ranging from prehistory to modernity. There are tons of interesting displays featuring English signage. The front door looks out onto a pleasant garden, facing towards the 14th century Banya Bashi mosque.
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Entry is 6lv, with an additional 6lv for an audio guide. Photo permission is 15lv, which may be worth it for you or not. Opening hours are 10 to 6; the museum is closed Mondays.
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Yellow Brick Road
Central Sofia was paved after a visiting prince disliked the muddy streets. The city thus imported yellow bricks from Hungary. Very expensive yellow bricks that took decades to pay for. Worse yet, the bricks are extremely slippery. Seriously, watch your step, especially when it rains.
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These yellow bricks make Sofia’s political center all the more eye-catching. The glass domes allow for a view of the ancient Serdica Exhibition. You can still see the Roman influence with the neoclassical buildings on both sides of the plaza.
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Despite being expensive slippery, they are one of Sofia’s most popular tourist landmarks. It really does look like something right out of the Wizard of Oz. Find the yellow brick roads between Nevsky Cathedral and Serdica metro exchange.
NDK (Palace of Culture)
This massive, communist era monstrosity of a cultural complex is located just south of Vitosha Boulevard. It hosts countless film screenings, exhibitions, and concerts around the year. There’s always something going on, so check online for more info before your visit.
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NDK, while an ugly building, is surrounded by a beautiful garden with extensive lawns and fountain pools. If you’re coming from elsewhere in town, there is a metro stop at the northern end of the park, just across the street from Vitosha Boulevard.
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Paradise Mall
Paradise Mall is the largest mall in Bulgaria, clean and modern and home to hundreds of shops and restaurants. It feels upscale, no different from similar malls in America or Western Europe. Take in stunning views of Mt Vitosha from the indoor/outdoor terrace on the food court level.
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Paradise Mall is south of downtown, a bit too far to walk from Vitosha Boulevard. Take metro line 2 to Vitosha Station, which has other tram and bus connections. You can go right into the mall from the metro station without going outside. All of this makes Paradise Mall one of the best things to do on a rainy day in Sofia.
Square of Tolerance
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Surrounding the Serdica metro complex on all sides, and each within view of the other, are four distinct places of religion. These are St. Nedelya Orthodox Church, Banya Bashi Mosque, Sofia Synagogue, and St Joseph Catholic Church.
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These houses of worship, all visible from the other, are a testament to Sofia’s fascinating cultural complexity. The square is a source of immense pride for locals, as it showcases a long history of religious tolerance.
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Performing Arts
Sofia has a wide assortment of cultural activities and performing arts venues. These include Sofia Opera & Ballet, Sofia Philharmonic, and Ivan Vazov National Theater. You can find great quality shows at very affordable prices. Ask at your hotel or check online for more information.
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Rila Monastery Day Trip
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Rila Monastery is Bulgaria’s Jerusalem, its spiritual heart deep in the mountains. It was built in 927 AD, though parts were rebuilt throughout the years. The monastery complex is surrounded by the breathtaking Rila Mountains, so it was a Bulgarian cultural refuge during the Ottoman era. Everything in the complex is really photogenic, so you’ll want a good camera to take plenty of pictures.
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Getting In
There is currently no public transport to Rila Monastery from Sofia. The best option, besides renting a car and driving yourself, is to take a guided day tour. There are plenty of options to choose from. One of the highest rated operators is Traventura, also called Sofia Day Tours. You can check them out here. Tours cost around €35 per person for an 8 hour trip, so it can be a good value if you aren’t interesting in renting your own car.
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If you’re driving yourself, you can stay the night in one of the former monastic cells. Don’t expect much in the way of luxury, but it is a unique experience. The compound is open from 6am to 10pm, so you’re locked in until morning if you do stay.
Visiting Rila Monastery
Rila Monastery is enclosed by thick walls, with massive gates leading into the central courtyard. Multiple levels of corridors rise from the ground floor, which lead to cells once occupied by monks. Structures are decorated with a black, red, and white stripe motif. Rila’s oldest surviving building in the compex is the 14th century Tower of Hrelja, which you can climb for 5lv or so.
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The center of Rila Monastery is the Church of Rozhdestvo Bogoradichno, built in the 1830s after a fire. It has an arched colonnade around the entrance, with walls and ceiling covered with beautiful paintings depicting saints and the apocalypse. Inside (no pictures allowed) is an ornate, exotic space decorated with icons and gold trim.
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Beyond the gates, hiking trails lead deeper into the Rila Monastery. If you have time, don’t miss the change to explore the pristine Bulgarian mountains and take in the fresh, cool air.
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Back in the monastery walls, there are two interesting museums you can visit. While the monastery itself is free, these museums have a small fee to enter.
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Wrapping Up Sofia
Sofia is one of Europe’s greatest hidden gems. It has a wealth of cultural, historical, and natural activities to discover. You can easily spend a week here. Its level of comfort and ease of travel might just surprise you. Unlike Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria’s medieval capital, Sofia is firmly looking to the future.
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Not only does Sofia have excellent local restaurants, but it also has a surprisingly cosmopolitan atmosphere in terms of food and shopping. And prices are lower than almost anywhere else in Europe.
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While there are plenty of architectural elements to remind you that this is the East, Sofia feels increasingly like a proper European capital. Many travelers haven’t put Bulgaria on their bucket lists, having heard only negative stereotypes of a backwards country. I hope this article has shown these stereotypes to be untrue. Everyone can find something to enjoy in Sofia, so add it to your list of travel plans if you haven’t already.
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