![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9424.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
Izmir, Turkey’s third largest city, is a bustling, modern metropolis. Most visitors view Izmir only as a transport hub to more interesting places nearby, but I think the city is worth a few days’ visit. Izmir appears to be a rather boring city, but its modernity hides some 5,000 years of history. While it lacks any major central tourist site like the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul (and consequently gets significantly fewer tourists), Izmir is an interesting and vibrant city nevertheless.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9398.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
Izmir sits along a dramatic bay of the Aegean Sea, ringed by mountains on three sides. As it faces west, you’ll take in some incredible sunsets. Izmir is Turkey’s most culturally and architecturally Western city, not least because of its Greek past, so it can feel surprisingly comfortable. Still, you needn’t tarry here for long. Izmir’s location is its main asset, located near to major Greco-Roman sites like Pergamon and Ephesus. You can get here from just about any other tourist city in Turkey. Continue reading to see what Izmir has to offer.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9405.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
Getting In
Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport is clean and modern. A medium-sized airport, it receives many flights daily from domestic and international destinations, including some to Europe. Turkey has a ton of domestic operators, in addition to its flagship carrier, Turkish Airlines. These include Pegasus, Anadolujet, and Sun Express. Because of the competition, prices can be shockingly low: as little as $30 for a one-way fare!
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9701.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Izmir Airport is served by the Izban suburban train; the station is right out front of the domestic terminal. Havas Shuttle Buses also go to the center as well.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9374.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Trains go from Izmir to Konya (12 hours) and Ankara (14 hours, via Eskisehir). Things are moving quickly, though, and the YHT high speed rail network is expanding across the country, maybe arriving in Izmir around 2024. Watch this space. Trains arrive at Basmane Railway Station (long distance) or Alsancak Station (Izban suburban rail, metro links).
Buses call at Izmir Otogar (bus station) from all over Turkey. It takes around 6-7 hours when coming from Istanbul. The large building has many facilities, like ticket windows, restaurants, and shops. Izmir Otogar is 6km north of downtown; take dolmus (private mini vans) or an Uber.
Finally, there are a few ferry services to various Greek destinations. A ferry to Thessaloniki arrives twice weekly; the journey lasts 14 hours and serves cars and pedestrians. Other ferry services depart from nearby towns like Cesme for the Greek islands.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9642.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Getting Around
Izmir is a large city, but the center is very walkable on foot. There are wide sidewalks, bayfront promenades, working crossing lights, and street signs that make navigation easy.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9422.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
IZBAN suburban train line is divided into the South line and North line. Both connect the outlying suburbs with the city center; the city center stations have metro transfer points. The south line passes by the airport station.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9376.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Izmir’s metro system runs east-west with connections to the North and South IZBAN lines. Trams go around the city center in a south loop and a north loop. The bus system is very extensive as well. Finally, a network of ferries cross the bay to connect other districts of the city. Expansion is ongoing on all of these lines.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9680.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
To ride any of these transport methods, you’ll need to purchase an Izmirim Kart. These smart cards costs 6TL, and subsequent rides cost 3TL each. You can buy cards from terminals at big stations, including the airport. Tap on and off at the turnstile in each metro/train station or onboard trams and buses. You can only purchase and reload the card with cash.
Google maps works for navigating public transportation in Izmir. If public transport doesn’t work for you, Uber works in the city. Use Uber instead of hailing an oft-dishonest taxi from the street.
History/Culture
Izmir has been settled since time immemorial. The ancient Greeks built a city, which destroyed and rebuilt by Alexander the Great. Since then, the city has been destroyed and rebuilt by earthquakes and wars over the millennia. Romans, Byzantine Greeks, Seljuks, and Ottomans all passed through, though the city remained predominantly Greek until as recently as the 1920s.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9445.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
After the Greco-Turkish War of 1922-23, most of the Greeks were sent to Greece (and Turks in Greece sent to Turkey), and Izmir has been Turkish ever since. Still, this European influence, combined with the Ottomans’ own dabbling in Westernization, has created a comfortable and modern city today.
Central Izmir is comfortable, clean, and orderly, if not a little boring. It has good public transport and infrastructure. The seafront is Izmir’s main cultural area, especially at sunset. Locals come in droves to fish, sit and talk, or just watch the beautiful setting sun.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9622.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
Don’t let the laid-back atmosphere fool you, however: you’ll need to be on guard after dark here. While certainly safer than many cities in North America, Izmir gets seedy after dark. Avoid the narrow alleys of Konak and Kemeralti after dark altogether. Call an Uber rather than walk out if you visit a bar or restaurant here. The main, wide streets are safe, if a bit deserted, after nightfall. Even during the day, the general rule for safety is to stay within the bounds of railroad track in the central city-if you don’t cross the tracks, you’re generally OK.
Konak Square/Clock Tower
Konak is Izmir’s central square, located right on the waterfront. A large, ornate clock tower stands in the middle of the square. It was built in 1901 as a gift to the sultan. The governor had it built to honor 25 years of the current sultan’s rule.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9596.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Palm trees and pigeons complete the scene; Konak Square bustles with locals and tourists alike. This is people watching paradise. Stand in the square and feel the energy of the square, and the city around it.
Konak Square is also next to a transport interchange. There are buses, trams, and ferries that go out to different parts of the city. Following the seafront a ways north, you’ll come to Konak Pier. This was built by Gustav Eiffel, of Tower fame, in the late 19th century. Now it houses a modern shopping center. Pop in and take a look around, at least for the history. In addition to the shops, there are also a few waterfront restaurants here.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9528.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Izmir Archaeological Museum
Like most of Turkey’s major cities, Izmir has a great archeological museum. It houses an extensive collection of artifacts from the Bronze Age, Greek, and Roman history. From statues and pottery to coins and cosmetic tools, artifacts from the ancient world are arranged chronologically across the museum’s two floors.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9540-scaled.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9550.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Since Izmir (once called Smyrna) has such a long Greek history, there is more of an Ancient Greek focus here than similar museums across Turkey. There is also a good bit of comparison between artifacts found in Izmir and artifacts found on the nearby Greek islands.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9559.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9585.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Izmir Archaeological Museum is within walking distance of Konak Square. The building is smaller and a bit more low-tech than the museums in Istanbul or Ankara, but there is still enough inside to spend an hour or two browsing the collection. Opening hours are 8:30am to 5pm. Entry is 50TL, but included free if you have a Turkey Museums Pass.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9579-scaled.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Izmir Agora Ruins
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9437.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
The closest thing that comes to a ‘must-see’ in Izmir, Smyrna Ancient Agora is an open-air museum reserve of Greco-Roman ruins of the 4th century BC-1st century AD. Smyrna Ancient Agora is quite expansive and atmospheric, and feels completely isolated despite being surrounded by city on all sides.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9451.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Visitors enter through the underground chambers of a basilica and market. Inside a few of the chambers, a water channel runs along the floor. No one knows how old this channel is, but the enigma certainly adds to the mysterious feel of the ruins. These ruins date to after Alexander the Great destroyed the city, but they are still remarkably old.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9457.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
After coming through the underground complex, the path opens into a green space, lined with columns and architectural remnants of the site. There isn’t too much in the way of signage, so you’ll need to bring a sense of imagination with you. That won’t be hard, however, thanks to the myriad of relics scattered about.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9469.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Izmir Agora is open from 8am to 7pm, 8:30 to 6:30 in winter. Entry is 18 lira or included free with a Turkey Museum Pass.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9490-scaled.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Alsancak Neighborhood
Alsancak is one of Izmir’s coolest neighborhoods. Its old buildings and narrow pedestrian streets are filled to the brim with trendy bars, small restaurants, outdoor cafes, and boutique shops.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9650-scaled.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
The neighborhood extends from the port along the north of downtown Izmir southward to Konak Square. The entire western shore is flanked by the appealing Kordon Promenade. Alsancak is also a good choice for where to stay in Izmir, with a couple of large western-owned hotels located nearby.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9628-scaled.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Kordon Promenade
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9634.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Izmir’s seafront stretches along the entire length of the downtown, from Konak Square all the way up to the port north of downtown. Paved walkways and wide, maintained green lawns create an appealing pedestrian-friendly zone to enjoy the sea breeze and the views.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9629.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
Kordon is bustling in the evening. There are tons of families and groups of young locals milling about. Fishers and vendors round out the scene, though I’d strongly avoid the mussels you can find for sale about the park. The atmosphere is lovely at sunset; the energy is almost as great as the views.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9665.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
During the day, there are a few interesting things to see. There are wide, open, concrete squares at various points along the promenade. There is usually an interesting monument or statue at the center of each square, dedicated to a war or hero unknown to those outside of Turkey.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9619.jpg?w=640&ssl=1)
When I visited, there was a ship-museum docked on the water that was free to visit. I couldn’t find anything about it online, but if you see an old ship docked along the side of the Kordon, give it a closer look. However, it might have been for a special commemoration of some sort.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9613.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Kemeralti Market
The ordered, Westernized atmosphere of Izmir fades away into the bustling, oriental vibes of Kemeralti. This is a large bazaar district that backs up to Konak Square. Its winding, maze-like streets sell just about everything, from spices and sweets to clothes and knock-off electronics.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9496.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Kemeralti Market is for locals, unlike the famous bazaars in Istanbul, so it has a more relaxed feel. You won’t be aggressively pressured to view or buy something, and vendors are generally friendly, even if just for a quick chat. Still haggle over anything you want to buy, of course. Haggling is an integral part of Turkish culture, after all.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9500.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Market streets spread out from the center in all directions. Artisan streets and food streets cross with clothes streets in a thoroughly discombobulating manner. You’re bound to get lost, and Kemeralti is best avoided altogether past dark, but no visit to Izmir is complete without stopping by this traditional market.
Ephesus Archaeological Site
Most tourists visit Izmir in passing to get to Ephesus, the greatest Roman site in Turkey. Once one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire, it is now one of the finest archaeological sights anywhere in the world.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_8915.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Ephesus is famous for two things: St Paul, and the Library of Celsus. However, it is beautiful in its own right, and beyond important to understanding Roman history. Not only does have a long list of ancient celebrities who visited, but a great assortment of surviving structures to help paint a picture of Ephesian daily life. If you go to any archaeological site in Turkey, make it this one.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_8985.jpg?resize=640%2C480&ssl=1)
You can quite easily get to Ephesus from Izmir. Rent a car, join a tour (book online and read reviews first), or take the IZBAN train to the village of Selcuk, then take a dolmus minivan to the ruin. It takes around 1 hour to 90 minutes to get from Izmir to Selcuk.
If you don’t want to visit Izmir, you can fly into the airport and catch a train right from the station outside the domestic terminal to Selcuk, the closest village to Ephesus. You need to buy an Izmirim Kart from the machine in the station first. It takes maybe 10 minutes to walk from Selcuk Train Station to the dolmus station, then a seven minute ride to Ephesus after the van fills up. This is doable in a day, but a much better option is to stay overnight in Selcuk. Read more here.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_8971.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Wrapping Up
With all that being said, I hope you’ll consider adding a day or two in Izmir to your Turkey vacation. It certainly gets fewer tourists than Istanbul, and fewer business or political travelers than Ankara. Because of its Western orientation, streets are organized in a grid pattern, alcohol is flowing freely, and it generally feels a bit cleaner than other Turkish cities. On the other hand, Izmir lacks a bit of soul outside of the Alsancak or Keremalti neighborhoods.
![](https://i0.wp.com/eclectictravelguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/IMG_9673.jpg?resize=640%2C853&ssl=1)
Many travel guides advise visitors to skip Izmir altogether or use it only as a transit hub. I disagree. Izmir gives visitors a different view of Turkey when compared to Istanbul, Ankara, or even Antalya. It is Western without the Western tourism. Even if you can only spare a night or two on your itinerary, do it. Izmir is the closest hub to many beautiful small beach towns, large Greco-Roman ruins, and ferries to the Greek islands. If you’re passing through, linger for a few days. Izmir has a laid back, authentic charm rarely seen in other Turkish coastal towns.