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Romania is one of Europe’s greatest countries to visit. Unlike France, Italy, Germany, or Britain, there is actually a sense of adventure to traveling here. The woods and mountains are wilder. Things are a bit rougher-around-the-edge. Despite this, you can still have a comfortable, and even luxurious, visit to Romania. This is especially true for Brasov, one of the best cities to visit in Transylvania.
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Brasov is essentially the gateway to Transylvania. Its old walled town is one of the best-preserved in all of Romania. Much of the architecture you see is original to the 14th-17th century; it isn’t just reconstructed, it’s the real deal. The beautiful architecture extends past the former city walls, especially to the north by the Citadel and south to the Schei district. Brasov is becoming increasingly popular among American and Western European tourists, but it still has an element of untouched potential to it. Keep reading to learn about this up-and-coming gem.
Understanding Romania
Since this is my first article on visiting Romania, and the country is more misunderstood than maybe any other country in Europe, I think a brief introduction to the country is necessary. Western minds, when hearing Transylvania, think of haunted woods, vampires, and superstitious peasants. The truth is less romantic.
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Brasov, and all of Transylvania, has a mixed heritage of Romanian, German, and Hungarian cultures. The city, called Brasso in Hungarian and Krondstadt in German, was settled by German immigrants in the 12th century at the request of the Hungarian king (Hungary once ruled Transylvania). Romanians weren’t allowed in the medieval walled city, so they built their own district, Schei, directly to the south. Don’t forget to explore this part of the city too, since it’s an important part of Romanian heritage.
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Romanians are not the superstitious peasants pop culture tells you. They are modern, educated, cultured, and quite indistinguishable from any other southern European. In fact, when I flew from Bologna, Italy to Brasov, I couldn’t tell at all who was Romanian and who was Italian. During your time in Brasov, do make an effort to meet local Romanians. They are very friendly and often quite willing to share their culture with you.
Romania is off Europe’s main tourist track. While it has made great strides, it still lags behind even Poland, Hungary, and Czech Republic in terms of infrastructure. Fewer people speak English (anyone under 40 will likely speak English at least a bit), and things may be a bit more unorganized than you’d like. You’re very likely to be affected by this in places like Brasov, however. I encourage travelers to visit despite some possible logistical challenges. I’m sure you’ll be as impressed as I was.
Getting to Brasov
The best way to get to Brasov is by train. Romanian trains have a (somewhat deserved) reputation of being slow, dirty, and overcrowded. This is changing, however, especially on the line between Bucharest and Brasov. This route takes about 2:30 hours, and you can choose between some 20+ departure times daily.
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CFR is the main company that operates trains in Romania, though there are some others. Romanian trains are a remarkable value. Expect to pay around the equivalent of €10 for a one-way journey. Gara de Nord in Bucharest is confusing, and not all ticket windows sell all tickets. Instead, book your ticket online and print it out or save it to your phone. Also, keep in mind that some trains get pretty crowded, so booking online can guarantee you a seat on your preferred train at your preferred time.
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Brasov’s train station is 2km north of the Old Town. It is a small, communist-vintage terminal, though it does have ticket windows, small shops/cafes, and a left-luggage service. You can get into the old town via bus #4, which leaves from the bus loop right out front. Uber is also cheap and readily available.
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Besides Bucharest, sample train journey times include Sibiu (4hr), Sighisoara (3hr), and Cluj-Napoca (6hr). If you don’t want to take the train, buses depart from station 1 right next door to the train station. Some routes may use minibuses/maxitaxis instead of coaches.
Bucharest has the closest major airport, so most travelers will arrive there first. Transfering from Bucharest Otopeni Airport to Brasov is quite easy: book a shuttle directly from the airport (about 3 hours) or jump on a train from the airport station to Gara de Nord in the center of town, then transfer to a Brasov-bound train from there (about 2:30 hour journey).
Getting Around
Brasov’s Old Town and Schei districts are very walkable. Much of the Old Town is pedestrianized, including Council Square and a few streets around it. Be careful when crossing the street when there is car traffic: drivers can be a little wild. Also, make an effort to stay central, as the suburbs tend to sprawl.
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Brasov also has an extensive bus network, which operates between 5:30am and midnight. Buses are modern and feature digital displays of upcoming stops. Routes can change from time to time, and can be a bit confusing, but Google Maps can plan out routes pretty well so don’t be afraid to use it. The closest stop to Old Town is ‘Livada Postei’.
Purchase bus tickets from kiosks at the main train station, or select minimarkets near stops. Tickets are cheap; don’t forget to validate in the machine upon boarding. The fine for being caught without a validated ticket is much more expensive.
If you’re out past midnight or want to go somewhere far or fast, Uber is plentiful and affordable. As an added bonus, drivers are often very friendly. Despite limited English, several of my drivers were eager to point out interesting things out the window and share their favorite things to do in and around Brasov.
A Word of Caution on the Tourist Information Office
Don’t go. The tourist information office is in an attractive old building just south of the Schei Gate off the roundabout. Inside, there is an office through a door in a plain, undecorated vestibule. If you get inside at all, that is: hours are sporadic.
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Worst of all, the staff at the office is downright rude. Romanians are direct communicators, so they can unintentionally come off as rude sometimes, but there was no mistaking the encounter I had with staff as a cultural misunderstanding.
When I walked in, the lady at the desk rolled her eyes and asked me what I wanted. I said I was a tourist looking for information, and she begrudgingly grabbed a map and walked over. Since I was visiting for Halloween, I enquired as to whether there were any events in town, to which she snapped at me “I have no information about this” and stormed back to her desk, proceeding to completely ignore me.
I wouldn’t usually complain about a negative experience and would rather just let it roll off my back. However, I think it’s important to warn future tourists about a possible bad experience, so they can spend their time more effectively and meeting the warm, friendly Brasov locals (who way outnumber the few rude people). Cultural differences are expected when travel, but they are never an excuse to be treated poorly or taken advantage of. Never be afraid to walk away.
Things to Do
Take a Free Walking Tour
Many visitors don’t know much about Brasov, or Romania in general. Because of this, taking a walking tour on your first day can be a good crash course in local and national history. A good tour guide can give meaning to a building you’d have walked right past, or told a funny story about an otherwise unremarkable statue. Furthermore, the famous legends of Vlad the Impaler and vampires and ghouls seem far away in bustling Brasov, so taking a tour is a good way to hear the stories from a local.
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Like many cities around Europe, there are a multitude of free walking tours of varying quality. The trick to these tours is that they aren’t really free, but instead ‘pay as you go’. Tour guides get paid based on how much you tip. Quality can be spotty sometimes, but I had an excellent guide when I visited Brasov, and the group was only about 10 people in total.
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Most tours, free or otherwise, last between 2 and 2:30 hours. If you want to join a walking tour (free or otherwise), check reviews online between a few of them first before booking. Even paid walking tours can be quite a good value in Romania.
Old Town
Brasov’s main tourist appeal is its remarkably well-preserved medieval walled city. Settled by Saxon settlers over 800 years ago at the behest of the Hungarian king, much of its architecture would be right at home in the heart of Germany. Brasov was one of the Siebenburgen, or ‘seven castles’ that gave the region of Transylvania its German name.
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The medieval walls that once ringed the city are mostly torn down, though some sections remain. Old Town is centered around Piața Sfatului, or Council Square. The heart of this wide pedestrian space is the 15th century former council house, with its grand clock tower. Council Square is surrounded by brightly colored buildings that feature ornate and diverse facades from different points in the city’s history.
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Some of the oldest are German and Hungarian, back when Romanians were forbidden to live within the walled city. More recent (19th century) Romanian constructions appear in between the older facades, given the Old Town a nice architectural mix. Several pedestrian streets lead out from Council Square; these are lined with shops, bars, and cafes with lively outdoor terraces.
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All in all, Brasov’s Old Town is a lovely place to stroll about; wander down small passageways off the main roads and look up at all the ornamentation that decorates the beautiful architecture. The whole district is a kinetic space, with plenty of bustle during the day and into the evening. If you want to see the city at a quieter hour, however, get up at an early hour to enjoy just how sleepy Brasov can be. And even at its busiest, the city retains a surprisingly relaxed feel.
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Strada Sforii
Brasov’s Old Town is home to one of the narrowest streets in Europe. At 53 inches wide at its widest and just 43 inches wide at its narrowest, you can’t even extend both arms out fully without touching the walls.
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‘String Street’, as the name translates to, is undeniably beautiful. Ignore the ugly graffiti that covers much of the street now (locals hate it; please don’t add your own) and enjoy the charming location. It was constructed in the first place as an alley for medieval firefighters to get between houses quickly: fires were an unfortunately common reality in centuries past.
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Strada Sforii is one of the best free attractions in the city and located in a particularly beautiful section of the walled Old Town. Go early or just before dark to avoid tourists and tour groups. Find the street perpendicular to the road that passes through Schei Gate, just southeast of Council Square.
Black Church
The number one tourist sight in Brasov, Black Church is the largest Gothic church in Eastern Europe. In fact, it is the largest Gothic church between Vienna and Istanbul. Black Church got its name after a fire in 1689 blackened its exterior walls. The hulking gothic structure dates to the 1380s, a testament to Brasov’s long history. The congregation was once Roman Catholic, but it has been a Lutheran church since the Reformation in the 16th century.
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The church’s interior is more plain than its Gothic exterior, with stark white walls. This reflects some 500 years as a Lutheran Church. It does have a famous 4000-pipe organ from the 19th century, however, and an interesting collection of Turkish carpets, which were gifts from the town’s wealthy merchants. In addition, many of its pews are historic, and were hand-carved.
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The Black Church is nearby Council Square. It is surrounded by a gravel courtyard, so you can walk around the whole thing to take it all in. When you visit, ask whether there will be any organ recitals during your stay, as the organ plays beautifully.
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Plan to visit the Black Church right when it opens or later in the evening, since it is Brasov’s most famous tourist attraction. While it won’t be mobbed since Brasov doesn’t get the same crowds as Western European cities, it can still get quite busy.
Entry to the church is 20 lei, and you can book online (here). Opening hours are 12 to 7 on Sundays and Mondays, and 10 to 7 the rest of the week from April 1st to October 15, with shorter hours the rest of the year.
Fortifications
Brasov’s Old Town once had a wall that extended around the entire city. Some of this wall and the associated fortification towers/gates survived to the present from as far back as the 14th century.
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- Bastions-to the east of the city, in the shadow of Mt Tampa. Uphill from the main town, you can get good views of the medieval architecture from a better angle. Along this wall are the Weaver’s, Spinner’s, and Draper’s Bastions. There is a nice walking path running parallel to these, and up to the cable car station.
- White Tower-on a hill immediately west of town. Free terrace provides excellent views of the city and Mt Tampa. Pleasant walking path along a creek to access the tower.
- Black Tower-another medieval tower with a free terrace overlooking the city.
- Catherine’s Gate-dates to 1559, was the main southern entrance into the city. The fairy tale turrets hide a sinister history: they symbolized Brasov’s right to use the death penalty for crimes in the medieval era.
- Schei Gate-just across the small park from Catherine’s Gate, the Schei Gate was built in the 1820s to replace the former, which had begun to fall into disrepair. A road passes through Schei Gate and into the old town from the direction of the Schei district.
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Mt Tâmpa
It’s probably the first thing you notice when arriving: Brasov’s version of the Hollywood Sign stands tall above the old town. The letters are a white gash in an otherwise green skyline, and the mountain dominates the sky when facing east.
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Climb up (955m in elevation) or take the cable car for an incredible view of the city and the surrounding mountains. It takes about an hour to hike up, or about 2 minutes if you take the cable car. The cable car costs 25 lei and operates from 9:30am to 4pm. Last car down is at 5pm. Go first thing in the morning or hike up, because the line for the cable car gets really long most of the day.
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If you choose to hike around the mountain, there are some beautiful trails. Bears are present, but rarely spotted around Brasov.
Schei District
Medieval Romanians were banned from living in the walled German city, so the Schei District grew up around the area immediately to the south. Not only is the Romanian district nearly as old as the walled town, but it has a distinct feel and unique architecture. Don’t visit Brasov without taking the time to explore Schei District.
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St Nicholas Cathedral
Brasov’s Old Town has the Black Church, and the Schei District has St Nicholas Cathedral. This stunning Orthodox church was built in the 15th and 16th centuries, and features a multitude of Gothic spires. The interior is ethereal, with icons and domes and frescoes and candles creating an atmosphere totally different to Catholic and Protestant Churches.
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St Nicholas Cathedral stands within a walled complex. A path leads from the gate around a garden area; the complex is also home to a cemetery and Romania’s Oldest School Building. This is the best place to be if you want to experience Romanian culture, religion, and history. Best of all, the cathedral and complex are free to visit, although the oldest school building costs a few lei to enter.
The cathedral complex is just off the main square in the Schei District. It takes less than 10 minutes to walk there from the Schei Gate.
Bran Castle
Romania’s #1 tourist attraction is Bran Castle, home to legends of vampires and perched on a cliff in a picturesque valley. Here’s the thing though: there’s no connection to Vlad Tepes, the real-life inspiration behind Count Dracula. He never visited here, although he did besiege Brasov once or twice. So where did the connection come from?
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Brahm Stoker, the author of ‘Dracula’, also never visited Romania. He did, however, read reports of Bran Castle, and saw a painting that inspired him to describe a very similar castle in the story. So even though there isn’t a Dracula connection, it still made an impression on that man who made Dracula famous.
Getting to Bran
Buses to Bran depart from Bus Terminal No. 2 in Brasov. The journey takes about 45 minutes. Fare is 7 lei. Returning to Brasov is a bit trickier. I saw buses stop outside of ‘Parcul Bran’ near the second entrance into the park outside the castle. However, I couldn’t find any schedule or anything, and asking a taxi driver (lots of them hanging about) for information about the bus is rarely a successful venture.
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Instead, I recommend using Uber to arrive and depart Bran Castle. Drivers should take you right up to the center of town, or as close as they can traffic depending (Bran is a very small village). I paid about €20, which is very worth the time saved waiting for/searching for a bus, especially if you’re traveling in a group. What’s more, I was very lucky to have personable, friendly drivers that made the 35-minute trip fly by.
Another plus towards Uber is that you can go right there in the morning and depart back to Brasov on the way back; there’s no need to wait for the next bus. Bran is a rather ugly example of bad tourism, and the entire area around the castle is filled with tacky souvenir stalls and overpriced fast food. There are certainly hidden gems here, but the best option is to head back to Brasov for better offerings.
Learn more about Bran Castle before your visit here.
Visiting Bran Castle
You’ll enter the castle through a staircase at the top of a ramp up the hill. Inside, the castle is fairly small but full of interesting information about Queen Marie of Romania, who did live here in the early 20th century. The castle was first built in 1388, though it was continually reconstructed and restored over the ages, so there is a lot of other history to see, too. One of my favorite exhibits was on legends and mythology, and included multimedia displays of such creatures as ghosts, werewolves, and yes, even vampires.
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Bran Castle features a photogenic medieval courtyard in its center, where you’ll end the tour. This is one of the most atmospheric parts of the castle, so take time to soak it all in.
Book online here to avoid waiting in the ticket line on site. You’ll have to wait in two lines if you wait to purchase at the castle, and they might run out. After purchasing your ticket (you can go straight there if you booked online), walk through the lawn to the ramp at the base of the castle. This is the line to get into the castle itself, which can also get very long. Whether you book ahead or not, show up first thing to minimize time waited in line.
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Entry to the castle during high season is 60 lei. Low season entry is 55 lei. There are two other sights at the castle, a medieval torture instruments exhibition (10 lei extra) and the Time Tunnel (20 lei extra). Neither of these seemed that great, so I elected to skip them. High season hours are 9 to 6 (from noon Mondays) and low season hours are 9 to 4 (from noon Mondays).
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Other Nearby Points of Interest
One of Brasov’s greatest strengths is its prime location at the foot of the Carpathian Mountains. From here, you can quite easily access the castles, fortified churches, rugged hiking trails, and tiny villages that have captured Western imaginations.
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- Rasnov-this small village is capped by a beautiful ruined citadel that dates to the 13th century. As of October 2022, the citadel was closed, but you can still visit and climb up to the top of the hill. Rasnov is halfway between Brasov and Bran Castle, and makes a good addition if you’re taking a day trip. There is also a train station with several daily connections to Brasov. As a bonus, there is another Hollywood-like Rasnov sign on the hill. (Travel time: 25 minutes by train).
- Sfantu Gheorghe-a small, attractive village with a Hungarian and German heritage. (Travel time: 25 minutes by train).
- Peles Castle-King Carol I built this at the time state-of-the-art palace to use in the summer. In addition to modern touches (plumbing, heating) found nowhere else nearby at that time, he had the castle built in gothic revival style. This means tons of fairy tale charm, from statues of armor and secret dungeons to hunting weapons and turrets. In a way, this is like the Romanian Neuschwanstein Castle. Peles Castle is in the resort town of Sinaia. It is one the main rail line between Brasov and Bucharest and takes about 1:10 hours to arrive from either.
- Poiana Brasov-Brasov’s ski resort is remarkably affordable and comes with tons of local recommendations (every Uber driver and server recommended a visit). Whether you visit in summer for hiking or winter for skiing, you’ll enjoy the small alpine village and all it has to offer. Take bus 20 from Livada Postei stop or hire an Uber (journey time 20 minutes).
Wrapping Up
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Brasov is one of Romania’s finest travel destinations. It is a great introduction to the Transylvania of real life, and not of myths and legends. More comfortable than you’d expect and in a prime location for countless day trips, you may find yourself staying longer than you had planned. If you’re looking for somewhere interesting to visit for your next vacation, take a serious look at Brasov; I’m sure you’ll be as pleasantly surprised as I was.