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Ephesus was one of the greatest and most important cities of the Roman Empire. A million tourists come to walk along its preserved streets every year, viewing the famous Amphitheater or Library of Celsus. Once a harbour town, Ephesus lost its prominence when its harbour silted up. Some 1,200 years ago, it was abandoned.
Visitors need lots of time to see all the highlights, since Ephesus is one of the largest ruin sites of antiquity. Many VIPs passed through in the city’s long history: Roman emperors, St Paul, and according to legend, the Virgin Mary. With this much history, and so extensive an archaeological site, smart visitors come prepared, either with a guidebook or a tour guide.
Ephesus is very well-located for tourist visits. The cruise port of Kusadasi is just 25 minutes from the site. More independent travelers will appreciate that Izmir, a major transport hub, is around 1.5 hours away, and has a large international airport. If there is any archaeological site you see on your visit to Turkey, make it this one.
Getting In
Izmir Adnan Menderes Airport is the closest major airport to Ephesus. There are multiple daily flights from Antalya, Istanbul, and major European hubs. From the airport, taxis (expensive and dishonest), shared Havas shuttles (these wait outside the terminal-just pay the driver), and the IZBAN suburban train connect Izmir and Ephesus.
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Coming by train, get off at the last stop southbound (Tepekoy), and transfer to the village of Selcuk. Before boarding, buy an Izmirim Kart from a machine inside the station. These machines take cash only, so be prepared. It takes about an hour and a half from the airport to Selcuk. Suburban trains are comfortable, plain, and clean, but may get busy at commuter times.
From here, walk through the town to the marked dolmus parking lot. Private, shared minivans leave from here to Ephesus. The journey takes around 10 minutes. Just look for a sticker marked ‘Ephesus’ in the van window and pay the driver or assistant. Once full, or at least half full, the van will depart for Ephesus lower gate. Independent visitors may wish to stay the night in Selcuk. If so, dolmus leave quite early for Ephesus, which means you can get to the sight before open and beat the crowds quite easily.
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Alternatively, Kusadasi cruise port is 25 minutes from the archaeological site. While there are some direct dolmus, most require at least one change. Drivers are very used to dealing with tourists, so just say ‘Efes’ and they should help you get where you want to go. Total journey time is 30-40 minutes. If you’re coming from a cruise and don’t want to pay for a pricy, 40+ person guided tour, this is the best way to get to Ephesus on a budget.
Getting Around
Ephesus is spread out, but walking is the only way around once you’re inside the archaeological zone. The main throughfare is well-paved, if a bit slippery in rain, but expect steps, uneven pavement, and other obstacles when getting a closer look at the ruins.
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There are two entrances: at the Upper Gate, and at the Lower Gate. Dolmus from Selcuk arrive and depart only from the Lower Gate to the north. This isn’t a big deal if you want to start from the Upper Gate, however. It is just a matter of walking through the site first to get to the Upper Gate, which takes no more than 20-30 minutes.
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Pathways are clearly marked, though they may move around a bit as restoration works occur. The streets are open to the sky now, but imagine them as they were in their prime: flanked by arches and colonnaded arcades that provided shade. The best way to explore ruins is on foot, and Ephesus most certainly does not disappoint.
Overview to Ephesus Site
Most visitors and tour groups enter through the Upper Gate. This is the better place to start a visit to Ephesus, though there is no difficulty in walking through the site from the Lower Gate until you reach the Upper. From here, expect to spend at least 3-4 hours in the site. Half a day is better, however.
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While you wander the site, consider that what you see may be only 15% of what was. This was a city of 250,000 people, after all. The three most popular sites to focus on during your visit are the Odeon, the Amphitheatre, and the Library of Celsus. On a busy day, prioritize these first and then backtrack.
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There are some on-site English signs to interpret the site. A better option is to get an audioguide, guidebook or join a tour group during your time at Ephesus. Whichever you choose, have a plan beforehand so as not to be caught out during your visit. Most definitely avoid any ‘free’ or ‘cheap’ offers for a guide; these will inevitably lead to a lengthy tour of a carpet shop, followed by a quick jaunt through the ruins.
The following are some of the highlights you’ll see on a visit to Ephesus.
State Agora
This open-air courtyard was once enclosed by covered arches and served as a public and government meeting place. Little remains today, and piles of old pipes dot the site instead of remains of buildings. Before they were destroyed and piled up as you see them, these pipes formed one of the ancient world’s most innovative public works projects.
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Odeon
Just across from the State Agora. This 2nd century theater, once an indoor space, is now open to the sky. It had 1,500 seats of marble. The odeon is well-preserved because it was buried in a hill for centuries.
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Trajan’s Fountain
Trajan’s Fountain is a particularly beautiful fountain structure from the 2nd century. It stands right on the main street, so you can’t miss it. Its impressive columns stand around a pool once filled with running water. The fountain served the needs of the public; the sculptures that once decorated it are now housed in the nearby Ephesus Museum.
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Toilets
Public toilets in Rome were a public affair. This is clear from the preserved toilets found in a structure just off the main road. Some 48 toilets sit in a u-shape, still ready to be used (but please don’t). The toilets had running water, and another stream ran along the floor for cleaning.
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Temple of Hadrian
The Temple of Hadrian is a great, arched façade with a few remnant decorations. Most of the former statues and other decor were moved to the Ephesus Museum in Selcuk, but the temple is an impressive monument, nonetheless.
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Terrace Houses
A worthwhile extra admission fee gives access to these well-preserved Roman houses covered by protected roofing. These houses were built for and occupied by the wealthy, and it must have been very comfortable to live here.
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Walls are covered with murals, a rich paintwork of numerous patterns. Age has not dulled the murals’ vibrant colors, to the benefit of archaeologists and tourists today. Floors of marble and exquisite mosaic work match the ornate murals on the walls.
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Raised walkways let visitors walk over, around, and through the houses beneath the protective canopy. There are many excellent angles from which to take in all the luxurious murals and mosaics that decorate the houses of the rich. The path takes visitors through the space in a one-way loop, exiting around back.
Library of Celsus
Ephesus’s grandest structure, and main symbol, is the spectacular façade of the Library of Celsus. Built in AD 123, the library was one of the ancient world’s oldest. Of all the well-preserved structures at Ephesus, none match the Library of Celsus for its symmetry and grace.
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The façade features three open doorways, with four columns in between, and another identical seat of each one level above. Four statues decorate the upper level, completing the design. Visitors can walk through the doors to view what once had been the inside of the library.
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Before you pass through the doors, look for the menorah carved into the steps: proof of an ancient Jewish community here. Passing through the façade, the space is rather plain. Certainly not matching the grandeur of the entrance. But imagine it as it must have been! Alcoves in the wall once held bundles of scrolls and bound parchment. Wide windows would have let light in for study. Roman intellectuals would have had access to great knowledge here.
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Great Theatre
Ephesus’s Great Theatre is absolutely huge, with seating for 25,000 people. This is maybe the biggest ever found. What’s more, it has impeccable acoustics, no mics needed. It still hosts performances today.
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The theater was built by the Greeks but expanded by the Romans in the 1st century AD. Enter through the stage, and climb up the steps to the seats for great views of the theater and backstage. Consider the history of the theater from above.
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The amphitheater hosted more than gladiator shows and drama: the Apostle Paul spoke here in the 50s AD, condemning the indigenous Cult of Artemis. The merchants who grew wealthy over said cult, and sold thousands of miniature Artemis sculptures, did not take kindly to his message, and chased him off. However, Christianity eventually took root. Before you leave, try out the acoustics from the stage. Whether you whistle, clap, sing, or give a long speech, know that anyone in the stands will hear you perfectly.
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Harbour Road
Ephesus was once a harbour city, and this road went straight to the harbour. Sadly, this road became increasingly irrelevant along with the city when the harbour eventually silted up. The final blow came some 1,200 years ago after an earthquake.
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Only the top end of the harbour road is open, but you can see far down to where the road once led to the harbour. The road is wide, paved in marble, and lined with the remnants of covered sidewalks. The road is in altogether remarkable condition. You can easily imagine the first impression visitors to the city would have had.
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Logistics
Entry to Ephesus Archaeological Site costs 200 Lira, plus an additional 170 Lira for the worthwhile Terrace Houses. Cash and card accepted onsite, but it is always a good idea to carry cash just in case. An Aegean Museums Pass or Turkey Museums Pass is a good value for those visiting more than just Ephesus. These passes also include entry to Ephesus Museum, Byzantine Citadel/Basilica of St John in Selcuk, and more attractions. Entry to the Terrace Houses in Ephesus is included as well.
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Opening hours are 8am to 6:30pm. Arrive at or before 9am to avoid the worst of the crowds. This is especially true in summer. Ephesus hosts 1.5 million visitors a year, and it gets packed! The best piece of advice for a successful visit is to go early.
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Final Thoughts
Ephesus is one of the finest preserved cities in all antiquity. Marble streets pass temples, fountains, statues, houses, and theatres. The Library of Celsus is one of the finest remains in all the former Roman Empire. Likewise, the Great Theatre is unmatched in its size and acoustics. Its biblical history matches that of Rome or Jerusalem, with a strong connection to the Apostle Paul and the Virgin Mary.
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Ephesus represents one end of the trio of tourist sights visitors come to Turkey to see. Istanbul is another, and Cappadocia out East is the third. It is the greatest of all ancient sites in Turkey and belongs on any must-see list for history lovers. If you dream of seeing Rome, or Athens, or the Pyramids of Giza, don’t leave Ephesus off your radar.
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