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Intro to Zadar
With a charming Old Town, island views, and one of the world’s best sunsets, Zadar is an essential stop on any visit to Croatia’s Adriatic coast. From the small peninsula of the Old Town, you can see the islands across the bay on one side and the mountains rising just beyond the hinterland on the other. While Zadar is growing as a cruise port, crowds remain much lower than Dubrovnik or Split. Keep reading to learn more about this remarkably scenic city on the Adriatic.
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Getting In
As the most important city in Northern Dalmatia, Zadar has many ferry links with the islands and cities to the north and south. It also has good ground links with inland Croatia.
Zadar Airport is small but modern, with many budget connections from all over Europe in the summer season. Buses into town depart from outside the main terminal and arrive at Zadar’s bus station. Buses are timed around Croatia Airlines flights, but anyone can use them.
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Zadar Bus Station is 1km southeast of the Old Town. There are frequent services to Split (2-3hr), Sibenik (1.5hr), Dubrovnik (8hr) to the south and Rijeka and Pula to the north. Heading inland, frequent buses depart for Zagreb (3hr). Many of these buses stop at Plitvice Lakes National Park (around 2 hours from Zadar), so you can stop over in between the two cities.
The bus station features a few small offices, overhang ringing the platforms, and some cheap restaurants. There is a McDonalds and a Konzum grocery store next door. Zadar city buses depart from out front of the station.
The ferry port is about 3km from the Old Town and 2.5km from the bus station. Jadrolinja operates large car/passenger ferries from this port north to Rijeka and south to Dubrovnik, with various stops on islands and mainland ports in between.
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Getting Around
The Old Town and Center are both very walkable and compact. You can actually stand at one end of the peninsula and see through the Old Town to the water on the other side-it takes maybe five minutes to walk across east-west.
You’ll need to use local buses to travel beyond the immediate center, like to the bus station. Zadar has a new and well-maintained fleet of buses. Buy tickets from the driver (in as close to exact change as possible) or from Tisak kiosks across the city. These are stands that sell various snacks and drinks, and you can find them near larger bus stops.
Most routes pass through Zadar’s main bus station; you’ll need to look for routes online beforehand as Google Maps doesn’t seem to show them. Route times are usually posted on overhangs at bus stops. Buses leave around every half hour, though they are often running late. Routes 5 and 8 head to and from Borik, where a number of resorts are clustered around the beach. These buses are usually marked ‘Puntamika’. Local bus #9 goes between Gazenica ferry port and the main bus station, where you can transfer for the Old Town. Shuttle buses are also available.
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Besides buses, Uber operates in Zadar as well. This can be a good option if you want to get somewhere across town and don’t want to wait for the next bus. Uber is also the fastest way to get to the cruise port.
Zadar Old Town
Zadar’s Old Town sits on a small peninsula surrounded by Venetian fortifications. It is so small you can stand at the east end and see the water on the west end. It is surprisingly dense, however, with all sorts of narrow passageways through centuries old structures. A wide pedestrian boulevard bisects the peninsula north-south, heading towards the Roman forum.
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Today, you can see Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, and Habsburg heritage. There are over 30 historic churches to visit. You can climb up to the fortifications and take in the views. And you are never more than a five-minute walk from the sea.
Some shops and restaurants take card, but expect to use cash at most churches, museums, and smaller bars/restaurants. Consequently, be sure to have plenty of cash on hand.
Church of St Donatus
The Byzantine-built Church of St Donatus stands at one end of the ancient Roman forum. Dating to the 9th century, it was built from recycled Roman stones and columns. This church is one of the only such surviving examples of Byzantine architecture anywhere in Croatia.
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Step inside the interior and gaze up at the ceiling. The church is fairly small, and built in the shape of a rotunda. It is fairly simple and undecorated, but the ancient columns holding up the ceiling are interesting to look at. You can climb up to a terrace via a staircase built into the wall and look down on the space from above.
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Entry to the church is €3 by cash only. Opening hours are 9am to 3pm in winter, longer in summer.
Roman Forum
Once the center of Roman life in ancient Zadar, the forum was constructed between the 1st century BC and the 3rd century AD. The space is the perfect place for a stroll today, and lively with locals and tourists alike.
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An open space, the forum is mostly columns and ruins of foundations today. One side of the forum is open to the sea; St Donatus Church takes up the other side. Zadar’s Archaeological Museum sits adjacent to the site.
Archaeological Museum
With a fitting location adjacent to the Roman forum, Zadar’s archaeological museum is one of the finest in Croatia. It houses an incredible collection of ancient artifacts from around the city and surrounding area. The second story gallery is especially good: it features a little bit of everything from Roman times. Think tombs/stelae, busts, medicinal vials, and even toys!
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The second story Roman gallery arranges its significant collection of artifacts by topic, so you can view similar artifacts and learn about how they interact with each other. For example, an information sign on Roman trade has a Roman mile marker next to it.
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The top floor, in contrast, is fairly uninspiring. There is a collection of pre-Roman artifacts arranged by period, from prehistoric to ancient Greek. It feels more like an office than a museum, with plain white walls and boring exhibits. All in all, the top floor feels outdated. Fortunately, the second floor more than makes up for it.
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Zadar’s Archaeological Museum is open from 9 to 9 from June to September, to 3pm in April, May, and October, and to 2pm (closed Sundays) from November to March. Tickets are around €5. When I visited in October 2022, you could only pay with cash.
Museum of Ancient Glass
This fascinating archaeological museum, housed in a 19th century palace, focuses specifically on the ancient glasswork of the Roman Empire. It houses a collection of some 5000 glass objects from the 1st century BC to the 400s AD.
You might not think that 2,000-year-old glass would be all that interesting, but the museum arranges the displays in an engaging way. It is hard to believe that some of the pieces are as old as they are-I would believe some of the vases are barely 100 years old.
In addition to the collection, the museum holds periodic glassblowing demonstrations throughout the day. Check online or with the front desk in person to learn more.
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The Museum of Ancient Glass is open from 9 to 9 in summer, and 9 to 4, closed Sundays in winter (from November to April). Entry costs around €6. Photography isn’t permitted inside, so photos are similar examples from other museums.
Zadar Fortifications
The peninsular Old Town is surrounded by Venetian-built fortification works from the 15th to the 17th centuries. Travelers used to enter through the famous Land Gate or Sea Gate, which can still be visited today.
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Today, the fortifications are a park-like space, which surround much of the peninsula. These have great views of the harbor to the east, and into the city itself. They are smaller than Dubrovnik’s city walls, but still beautiful. Best of all, they are free to explore.
St Anastasia’s Cathedral
Zadar’s Cathedral was built in the 12th and 13th century. Its ornate façade that wouldn’t look out of place in Central Italy. Inside, the grand Romanesque interior has three naves. Some of the walls have medieval frescoes.
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Like other Romanesque cathedrals, the interior features stone arches and columns along the nave. It is a great example of Romanesque architecture if you’ve never seen it before. The cathedral is free to enter, though it has limited hours that change frequently. Your best bet to get inside is to walk by it throughout your visit and check if the door is open.
Zadar Market
The Old Town’s main market is in the center of the peninsula, with dozens of covered stalls selling fruits, vegetables, cheese, and local olive oil. This is the best place to find a real, local experience. Zadar residents still come here to shop, sell, and catch up with neighbors.
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The market operates from 7am to 3pm Monday through Saturday, and from 7am to noon on Sundays.
Sea Organ
Take a break from all the history for one of the greatest art installations of all time. This modern installation is a set of stone steps that lead into the sea from a wide plaza at the north end of Zadar Old Town. A set of pipes beneath the stairs make music whenever waves push into the stairs-they are especially active after a ship passes by.
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You can go for a swim from the steps and take in the music while enjoying the blue waters of the Adriatic. And since it faces west, the sunsets are unbeatable. Alfred Hitchcock supposedly said the sunsets in Zadar were the best in the world-can you argue with him?
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Sun Salutation
This modern installation is on the same plaza on the Sea Organ, and created by the same artist. It is a circular glass floor that collects the sun’s energy during the day. After dark, the glass creates a light show that lasts from sunset to sunrise with the energy collected during the day. Go at sunset and enjoy the two shows: that of the sun setting behind the islands and the Sun Salutation.
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Both the Sea Organ and the Sun Salutation are in an open plaza at the north end of the Old Town. Walk north from anywhere on the peninsula and you’ll eventually end up here. Many visitors and locals make their way here from the late afternoon, and there is a great vibe.
Where to Stay in Zadar
Zadar’s Old Town is the best place to stay. It is central to everything, completely walkable, and you can spend your entire visit in the wonderful historic atmosphere. There are many charming and comfortable guesthouses available throughout the small peninsula. One downside of staying here is the price-you’ll pay quite a bit more for the privilege of sleeping in the Old Town.
If you can’t afford the Old Town but still want to be central, you can stay on the mainland close to the peninsula. There are plenty of hotels and apartments available within a 10-minute walk of the Old Town, and while the modern city lacks charm, it is safe and centrally located, not to mention cheaper.
A good option to stay further out is Borik, a beach area with many resorts and apartment homes available. The appeal to stay here, besides a good beach promenade with excellent views, is that prices are significantly cheaper than in or nearby the Old Town. If you decide to stay here, you can get to Old Town by bus in about 10 minutes, or on foot in about 45 minutes. Buses arrive at the Borik bus station around every 30 minutes, though they are frequently late. Alternatively, Uber also operates in Zadar.
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Zadar has guesthouses, apartment rentals, resorts, hotels, and even campsites to stay at. There are options for every budget and comfort level. For the best prices, plan your visit in May, June, late September, or October. This also avoids the worst of the heat and crowds.
Where to Eat
Zadar is one of my favorite places in Europe. Despite a rather ugly hinterland, its beautiful old town and scenic bay, islands, and mountains more than make up for it. Buses are slow and not the most reliable, but Uber is affordable. The one downside I can’t defend is the lack of budget places to eat anywhere in town.
The Old Town has many, many restaurants. Unfortunately, the vast majority of them offer pricy seafood dinners or pizzas. There are maybe half a dozen affordable places to eat, and most of these aren’t great. There are plenty of gelato places, but more affordable substantial food is scarce.
The scarcity of decent affordable options continues on the mainland. Even by Borik beach, a good ways away from the Old Town, restaurants are spread out and overpriced.
The lack of affordable options shouldn’t be a dealbreaker, however. Zadar has plenty of grocery stores where you can buy a snack or picnic supplies to enjoy by the sea. If you have the money to spend, you’ll eat here. If you’re traveling on a budget, pay extra attention to restaurants to find the few reasonably priced options. I will say that Zadar has cheaper food, attractions, and accommodations when compared to Dubrovnik.
Final Thoughts
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Zadar is one of Croatia’s finest port cities. Its location in between mountains and a sheltered bay is among the most beautiful in the entire Adriatic. The Old Town is on a peninsula separated from the rather ugly mainland city, and feels a world apart. Zadar has everything you’d expect from the Croatian coast, with lower prices and crowds to boot. While its good transport links mean you’ll probably be passing through anyway, be sure to linger for a few days. There is plenty to enjoy.